Fine-Tuning of a Drill Press

fine tune the position

When you purchase a new drill press, a secondhand one or you are left with one from granddad, you must occasionally inspect its accuracy. If you’re left with a conventional, sharp tad, your press should sprint progressively, as well as it should drill new gaps.  On the other hand there are mainly three matters that can stop highest functioning in your press: shaking, play plus vibrate or run-out.

Removing the Pulsation

Shaking generally begins at a press’s energy method.  

If you feel tremor, expose the top protector, switch on the machine also observe if the pulleys run efficiently plus get rid of noise by the whining of the belt.  

If that doesn’t work smoothly, kill the power, remove the belt, plus observe its condition.  

Change the belt if it has bumps or cuts and is weak.

Then,  manually hand  turn  the  pulleys  to  see  if they  have  any  flaws  or else  are out of set.  

Next, attempt retightening the pulley’s setscrew prior to replacing one that wobbles.

If you find any kind of rumbles or growls when the pulleys are spinning, dirty or worn, you should change the bearings and indeed this will solve the problem.

Eliminating the Quill Side and Spindle End Play

The Quill Side Play

A press can construct side play amid the peak molding as well as the quill.  

If you want to inspect for this, decrease the quill, then wobble it, not the chuck though, as of side to side to observe exactly how ample slack present is.

There would be a screw locknut that will let you tight the splits collectively to take some of the play out, if the top molding is divided at the face.

A remedy for side play is unlikely if your press has a hard top.

The Spindle End Play

For the inspection of spindle end  play,  lock up  the  quill,  as well as  try to  transfer  the chuck  up  and  down.  

If you come across  end  play, the loose is possibly amid the  quill,  plus  the  collar  over  the  higher quill bearing.  

Loose the collar’s setscrew, plus slide the collar back to its first location to fix this problem.

A plate will be on the face of the head to retrieve the collar, if you’re lucky enough.

If you are not lucky enough the feed lever as well as the pinion will have to be detached alongside with releasing tension off the quill’s arrival spring.

Let a professional do all the work if your machine’s instruction manual does not shield how to disband the spring gathering, so this procedure is somewhat tricky and dangerous.

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Placing and Expending a Counter Top Drill/Mill for Gun Usages

If you happen to be interested in a little bit of milling work to your own guns or weapons, you need not have loads of money to invest in a large workshop and an expensive drill press with costly appliances. For cutting front and rear sight dovetails, milling the rear of a slide or cutting out its front cocking grooves, you don’t require a heavy-duty floor stand milling machine. All you need to buy is a 12 Speed Drill/Mill machine and you are good to go. I didn’t have much with me so I purchased 42976-3VGA, which unluckily isn’t available any longer but don’t worry, this same drill comes in other similar models.


Description of 42976-3VGA

This Drill/Mill is a combination of drill press and vertical milling machine with a swivel head that is heavy duty enough. The head also lifts and drops on a row to alter for diverse dimensions of work hoard. Keep in mind that many multi- function mechanisms such as this execute each task more or less, but not reasonably as fine as a devoted apparatus.


  1. Before bringing in your drill press, you should have a workbench to mount your machine on it.
  2. You can go for a 4-drawer workbench with pegboard back. 
  3. Ensure that the bench top is made of fiberboard. 
  4. Fiberboard has a tendency to soften when it gets damp, and milling requires using cutting oil, so laminate the top and edges.
  5. Carbide-tipped laminate trimmings will really make the job easy and professional.

Unpacking and Mounting

  1. This drill press arrives in a wooden box and takes about 30 minutes to unpack.
  2. The machine is liberally coated with Rust Preventing Oil, i.e. RPO, so it has to be cleaned first. You will need some good machinery cleaner and paper towels to clean it.
  3. Now, comes the lifting part where you’ll require the services of at least 2-3 people to carry it towards your workbench, as it is quite heavy.
  4. The machine comes with a tray for holding chips and oil.  It has 4 holes for the fitting screws, so I used it as a model to drill holes in the workbench top. 
  5. To inhibit the tray from budging while placing the machine, drill 2 holes on both sides of the tray for an 8 wood bolt.

Instructions for Operating

  1. There are dissimilar kinds of tapers and this machine has a Morris 2 (M2) taper.  The 3-jaw chuck and taper must be mounted by swiftly putting the assembly in position in the spindle.  It must not be connected with the draw bar. 
  2. The chuck is intended for drilling, not milling, and the sliding compression of the drilling act clamps the taper in point. 
  3. To take out the taper, bring down the spindle till the drill drift notch is evident, inset the drill drift and knock it with a hammer. 
  4. The chuck and taper compilation should fall in your hand after merely a reasonable blow on the drill drift.
  5. Milling bits should be connected to the spindle using a collet. A collet is a split cone with a hole in the mid to take a milling bit. 
  6. The angle of the cone equals the taper in the spindle. 
  7. The back of the collet is looped to take the draw bar. 
  8. The collet is fastened on the draw bar, the shank of the bit is implanted into the end of the collet, and the whole compilation is enclosed into the spindle. 
  9. A nut and washer is at that time fixed to the topmost of the draw bar.  Once this nut is moderately tightened up it pulls the collet higher into the taper, which clasps the fingers of the collet to grip the bit firmly in position. 
  10. The draw bar ought to be well-fitting, not close-fitting, so as slackening the nut and hitting the top with a mallet can effortlessly detach it.


Regardless of whatever the so called specialists utter, you can execute guns work through a bench-top milling machine.  The appliance must be hefty and steady enough to achieve the accurate work essential for weapons.  Likewise, you require having the suitable gauging gears to guarantee your work is accurately aligned, and when compulsory, transfers an exact expanse.  There’s not anything like the fulfillment of undertaking a work yourself, and performing it soundly.